A Story of Water in Cambodia

Water is a huge part of life here in rural Battambang. It often takes precedence in daily conversation. Topics range from hourly weather or road conditions to more serious topics related to crop yields and drinking water. And more sobering is discussing how farmers face to lose their livelihood through flooding or drought–both of which have been increasing in frequency and severity.

But rather than talk about the many ways water is important to current Cambodian economics, culture, and life, I want to focus on a historical piece that I was privileged to hear recently.

Rain at the office! Rain in the Battambang province is talked about constantly as the province is the hub of agricultural output in the country.

Footballin’ Fun

I arrive with the sun starting its decent and smoke rising from the pre-game cigarettes. Between puffs, players lace up shoes, strap on shin guards, and slip on their red jerseys. I am tossed a team jersey that seems to cover the majority of my midriff (being tall has its cons at times). My recently acquired bright orange cleats already show signs of wear and tear of a few weeks of practice. Today we are playing against the staff at the local ACLEDA bank. Our teams play often, trading wins and losses every month. It’s a highly anticipated match that draws spectators from town.

I step out onto the field. The stadium lights shine bright on the green turf grass.  Darkness falls on the rice fields surrounding the soccer complex. Players dressed in either red or gold are positioned across the field ready to begin play. Dozens of fans are stationed along the perimeter, already cheering and chanting. I look to my right. My teammates are focused and are finishing up their final pregame routines. Oh man, why am I so nervous? I haven’t been this anxious for a something competitive in long time. Is it because I don’t want to let my team down? Is it because I fear my teammate’s disappointment in my inadequate football skills? Is it because I feel the eyes of the spectators?

Pictured is the Sten Sor football club. It’s the main venue of games and practice in Bavel. The team warming up above is a 14-and-under team that I occasionally join for practices. Their coach is a fellow teacher and good friend at the Bavel high school. It’s always humbling to practice with and learn from these talented young athletes.

The referee steps onto the field and blows the whistle.The field springs to life as players sprint, kick, and shout. They quickly maneuver the ball up and down the field, passing fluidly to one another with smooth precision.

Concrete and ‘Ccompaniment

This post appeared in my January newsletter. If you’re asking yourself, “What newsletter?”, leave a comment below or send me an email and I will gladly add you to the recipient list.

The city atmosphere of Battambang brings an array of new sounds and scenes in comparison to the rural Bavel district. Sounds of accelerating cars, trucks, and the buzzing of motos fill the air while the various city aromas keep my sense of smell stirring.  The sun steadily rises over the canopy of buildings as the wind is unable to provide relief from the increasing heat. The air is hot and stuffy but the shade given by the house manages to ease the temperature. The capital town of the province serves as my home on some weekends. A few coworkers generously take me into their families after a week of work at the office in Bavel, which sits roughly 50km to the northwest.

A nice view of Battambang city from a high rise building.

A Reality Far from My ‘Normal’

The December air is cool. Well, at least relatively speaking. The weather peaks around 85 during midday and a constant breeze encourages many to wear heavier clothing. The trees are losing their bright color as the rains have lessened, but the green still dominates nearly every direction. Many rice fields are nearing their second harvest while the canal waters disappear.

Today we are in the Sam Lot district, a large area in southwestern Battambang near the Thai border. My coworkers are teaching fifteen community members how to properly raise and vaccinate chickens in their local areas. This teaching has extended into its third day due to the detailed and extensive information discussed. I’ve found that chicken-raising is quite the undertaking as growing and selling healthy/profitable chickens is a very meticulous process. Much of the curriculum covers optimal nurturing methods and maximizing economic output strategies.  The hope is that each chicken farmer will improve their raising techniques and empower others by passing this new knowledge to his/her neighbors, having cascading livelihood effects across entire communities.

The group of participants learn about raising chickens in the shade of a community gathering area.

During the training, I sit and listen, understanding bits and pieces of what words and ideas are shared. I also take pictures to help my coworkers document this community-empowerment activity. As I sit, observe, and click with the camera, I write down questions that I’ll be sure to ask my coworkers later for further clarification and understanding.